SOD INFORMATION

Sod Installation & Care Guide

Soil Preparation

For best results, rototill or spade the area to be sodded to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Eliminate drainage problems by sloping soil away from foundations, etc. Soils test your lawn with the assistance of qualified service in your area. The soil test results will tell you the amounts and type of fertilizer needed. Then rake in fertilizer, lime, peat, and compost as needed to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. Rake and smooth the soil, removing rocks, roots and large clods. Be sure the surface is leveled well as the sod will not “fill in” the low spots. Along sidewalks or driveways we recommend lowering the grade by 1".

Turf Installation

Turf is a living plant that requires ground contact and moisture to survive! Install your lawn immediately upon delivery. Begin watering within 30 minutes of installation. In hot weather, protect unlaid turf by placing stacks in the shade. Begin installing turf along the longest straight line, such as a driveway or sidewalk. Butt and push edges and ends against each other tightly, without stretching. Avoid gaps or overlaps. Stagger the joints in each row in a brick-like fashion, using large sharp knife to trim corners, etc. Avoid leaving small strips at outer edges as they will not maintain moisture. On slopes, place the turf pieces horizontally across the slope.

It is important to remember that turf needs to be installed promptly. Sod that is left rolled for a long period of time will overheat and die.

To avoid causing indentations or air pockets, avoid repeated walking or kneeling on the turf while it is being installed or just after watering.

BIG ROLL SOD TIPS:

Big roll sod works best in large open areas. Each big roll weighs between 1200 and 1500 pounds, so equipment is needed to install it.

Start along a straight line and work away from buildings. If backing up when rolling the sod out, the flap should be facing the driver. The driver can place the roll on the ground and roll forward to roll off the top flap. A helper then lines up the end of the roll and motions the drive to back up. The driver will lift the roll slightly and unroll the roll. If the sod “puckers” the driver can lift the roll and gentle pull the pucker out, but only if the sod strength allows. When fitting side seams together, it is easier to pull the sod towards the previously laid roll to prevent gaps than to have the sod rolled on top of the previously installed roll and have to pull in back off the already installed sod. The driver should keep the sod 2 inches or more away from the previous installed roll.

Using rakes or on their hands and knees, the fitters will match up the long seams tightly to each other. Once the tube is empty place it in our custom built tube racks for easy handling back to the farm. If a partial roll is needed, at the end of the first run cut the roll on the machine side leaving the flap just past the 3 or 9 o’clock position. Half rolls tend to unravel easily so staking might be necessary while transporting to the next installation location.

Labor: Generally five people are needed for larger jobs: one operator on the skid steer or tractor, two people fitting, one trimming and one helping with the empty tubes. Most of the time big rolls used in large areas save time. Areas under 5,000 square feet with obstacles are best done with small rolls.

Watering

Give your new lawn at least 1" of water within 1⁄2 hour of installation. Water daily, or more often, keeping turf moist until it is firmly rooted (about 2 weeks). Then less frequent and deeper watering should begin. Weather conditions will dictate the amount and frequency of watering. Be certain that your new lawn has enough moisture to survive dry, hot or windy periods. Remember to water areas near buildings more often since reflected heat dries the turf.

Caution

During the first three weeks, avoid heavy or concentrated use of your new lawn. This will give the roots an opportunity to firmly knit with the soil and insure that the turf will remain smooth.

Maintenance Tips

Great care and effort have been put into producing our “Premium Quality” sod. The most disease resistant Kentucky Bluegrass varieties are selected to produce a resilient, high quality sod that will add to the beauty and value of your surroundings. With proper care, it will remain a great asset, providing beauty, a clean playing surface and an improved environment. Here are some maintenance tips:

Mowing — Your new living carpet generally needs mowing 6-7 days after installation. Mow often, generally removing no more than 1/3" of the grass height with each mowing. Always remember to keep you mower blade sharp. Mow when grass height reaches 3" Set your mower a cutting height of 2-3" The recommended mowing height will promote deep rooting to better survive dry periods.

Aeration — To promote deep rooting and reduce soil compaction created from new construction, we highly recommend aerating your lawn in the fall and spring when the ground is easy to penetrate. A soil plug of at least 1⁄2" by 3-4" deep should be removed, leaving a series of holes approximately 2-3"” apart. If you are using a wheel type aerator you will have to go over the lawn several times to get the density of holes needed to keep your lawn healthy.

Fertilization — Fertilize your newly sodded lawn 30-45 days after installation. Always use a slow release formulation of plant food with a 3:1:1 ratio, such as 12-4-4 or similar formulations. Fertilize moderately applying 3-4 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 Sq.Ft. per year. Avoid heavy fertilization in spring (April) wait until June to fertilize. Fertilize 3-4 times a year and apply most of the fertilizer in September & October. Spread fertilizer evenly to avoid streaking and burns. Apply when the grass is dry and water it in. Please note that our Wisconsin Green Fescue Mix and Tall Fescue Kentucky Bluegrass Mix only requires 1/2 of the above recommendations.

Weed Control — The best weed control is a healthy lawn. Keeping turf vigorous does not allow weeds to get started as easily. When weeds become a problem, hand weeding or herbicides are suggested. Crabgrass is an annual that develops from the seed produced the previous year. To control it, apply a pre-emergent herbicide in April, before the crabgrass starts to grow. Apply herbicides for broadleaf weeds (dandelions, plantain, etc.) in May or September. Carefully follow the manufactures directions listed on the containers.